Search Results: soap

Looking for soap for sensitive skin Australia? Learn what actually matters, which ingredients to avoid, and how to choose a gentler daily wash.

So you have bought our handmade soap and of course we want you to get the most out of it. There are many ways to make your soap last longer, it just takes a little effort.1. Keep the soap away from water.Nothing will make your soap disintegrate faster than keeping it wet. Water breaks down the consistency of the soap and makes it necessary to replace your soap much more frequently. Avoid storing your soap in a place that is constantly in contact with water, like in the direct stream of the shower.2. Let the soap air dry.Allowing the air to dry out its moisture will make a bar of soap harder (and therefore less likely to crumble), so that it lasts longer. The more time your soap spends completely dry, the longer it will last. Because of this, the more people who use a bar of soap, the faster it will need to be replaced. More users means less time between showers and more time that the soap will spend wet.3. Always keep your soap in an appropriate soap dish that allows for drainage.A wire rack, bamboo soap dish or a self-draining soap disht. Soap dishes without drainage keep the moisture longer and will make it harder for your soap to dry out in between uses. Although some of the more fancy plastic and stainless steel soap dish designs are funky and cute, unless they have drainage, they are liable to make your soap soggy.4. Store smaller pieces in a soap-saving pouch.Once your soap bar breaks down into smaller pieces that are difficult to use, put those smaller pieces inside a soap-saving pouch. This small bag will work to contain the pieces for reuse, but it also acts as a type of exfoliating washcloth that you can use to bath yourself with the soap remnants inside. Instinks is looking for some awesome soap savers.5. Use a washcloth instead of your hands.Skin is less able to produce and retain lather from soap than other materials. If you use a washcloth instead while you are bathing, the whole process will use less soap overall because the washcloth will create more lather and it the suds it creates will go farther in cleaning your body than simply using your hands alone. Additionally, you can use a loofah to help the soap last longer.6. Take cooler showers.Hot water will make your bar soap dissolve more quickly and will require more effort to make lather. A cooler shower will help your bar soap last longer by allowing it to maintain its shape and consistency for a longer period of time.7. Water hardness.Softer water will also help prolong the life of your soap over hard shower water.8. Cut the bar of soap into smaller pieces.Smaller bars of soap will last longer because you are taking smaller pieces into the shower with you each time. This means that only the smaller piece gets wet during each shower, so the other pieces can remain dry the entire time until you are ready to use them. Cut your soap bars into halves, or even thirds, if possible. Only use one small piece at a time until it is gone.9. Convert bar soap into liquid soap.Diluting your bar soap into liquid soap will help it stretch farther over many more uses. Follow these simple instructions: Use a grater to scrape pieces off your bar of soap. Take 1oz. of the grated soap and put it in a jar or other kind of container. Add 1-2 cups of clean, filtered water and let it sit overnight. Stir the mixture well before use.

Why does soap feel drying on skin? Learn what soap really does, why tightness happens after washing, and how to cleanse without stripping.

Choosing soap for dry skin comes down to what it leaves behind, not just what it removes. Here’s what to look for in a gentler daily wash.

Learn how to choose gentle soap for dry, sensitive skin: read labels with confidence, avoid unnecessary irritants and find a wash that feels good daily.

Bar soap vs body wash - which is better for dry, sensitive or everyday skin? A clear guide to cleansing, ingredients, feel and what matters.

A practical low-scent deer tallow soap for hunters, fishers and campers, made with sea clay and activated charcoal to help wash away outdoor grime without leaving a perfume or artificial fragrance trail.

I didn’t realise how many soap makers are using drain cleaner until recently… and it definitely raised a few eyebrows for me. And what surprised me even more is how normal this has become in some soap making groups. It shouldn’t be. First — what customers need to know All real soap is made using sodium hydroxide (lye). It reacts with oils in a process called saponification, and when done properly, there is no active lye left in the final bar. That’s how soap has always been made. So the issue isn’t lye. The issue is what’s being used You’ll see drain cleaners labelled “100% sodium hydroxide”. But that doesn’t mean it’s been produced, handled, or packed to a standard suitable for skin products. Drain cleaner is made and packaged as a cleaning chemical. That means: it may be packed in general chemical facilities it can sit in storage absorbing moisture packaging environments are not controlled for cosmetic use traceability is limited labelling focuses on hazard, not formulation quality It’s designed to unblock pipes — not to be used as a controlled raw ingredient. A simple way to understand it Sodium hydroxide is also used in food — pretzels, for example. But no pretzel maker is allowed to use drain cleaner. They must use food-grade sodium hydroxide, because of how it’s handled, stored, and supplied. Same chemical. Completely different standard. DIY vs selling — this is where it matters most If you’re making soap at home for yourself, you get to choose what you’re comfortable using. That’s your call. But the moment you’re selling a product to someone else, the standard changes. You’re no longer just making something for your own skin — you’re responsible for what goes on someone else’s. And that’s where using a product designed to clean drains instead of a properly supplied raw ingredient becomes a serious issue. Where we stand We only use pure sodium hydroxide from a proper cosmetic/raw ingredient supplier. That gives: known purity consistent quality proper documentation full traceability Why this matters By the time soap is finished, the lye is gone. But how your ingredients are sourced and handled before that point still matters. A professional manufacturer doesn’t formulate skincare using cleaning products. They use ingredients supplied and handled to the correct standard for that purpose. This isn’t about fear — it’s about standards Lye isn’t the problem. Lowering standards is. And normalising the use of cleaning products in skin formulations — especially for products being sold — is something that needs to be questioned, not accepted.

Are shampoo bars worth it? We break down performance, ingredients, scalp comfort and value, so you can decide if a bar suits your hair.

Find the best plastic free toiletries for sensitive, dry skin, from deodorant and soap to hair care. What works, what to avoid and why packaging matters.

A mild oat and calendula hand soak for a quiet clean-up after gardening.

A simple warm-water nail soak followed by a drop of plant oil around each cuticle.

A quick, single-use sugar scrub for cleaning garden-worn hands.

Every blend I make - candle, soap, or balm - starts with one goal: to smell like nature, not a lab. That means no synthetic fixatives, no artificial stabilisers. Just pure essential oils, balanced and chosen based on how they behave at a molecular level. The Science Behind Scent Balance Essential oils are complex mixtures of natural compounds. Each compound has its own molecular weight and volatility - which determines how quickly it evaporates. That’s what forms the scent pyramid. The Chemistry of Top, Middle, and Base Notes — What They Do and Why They Matter Top Notes What happens: Evaporate quickly and give the first burst of scent. Why it matters: These light, fast-moving molecules create freshness and lift the whole blend. Examples I use: Lemon Myrtle, Peppermint, Sweet Orange, Eucalyptus. Middle Notes What happens: Form the body of the scent and link the top to the base. Why it matters: Medium-weight molecules keep the blend balanced and consistent. Examples I use: Lavender, Geranium, Rosemary, Chamomile. Base Notes What happens: Linger the longest and hold the scent together. Why it matters: Heavy, slow-evaporating molecules give the scent depth and staying power. Examples I use: Cedarwood, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla Oleoresin, and sometimes Vetiver. Getting the ratios right (roughly 30% top, 50% middle, 20% base) gives a steady scent release curve - it opens, breathes, and fades naturally instead of vanishing. For Candles - The Chemistry of Wax and Heat I use pure coconut wax because of how it interacts with essential oils. Coconut wax is made of short-chain fatty acids, which create a tight but flexible network when cooled. That network physically traps scent molecules and releases them slowly as the wax melts. Here’s what that means scientifically: Coconut wax melts at around 40 °C, much lower than soy or palm. That lower melt point protects lighter molecules (like limonene in citrus oils) from early evaporation. Its semi-crystalline structure allows scent molecules to nestle between fat chains — which is why it holds natural essential oils so well. It cures quickly - about 48 hours, because molecular binding happens fast compared to soy blends. Temperature control is everything. Each oil has a different flash point (the temperature where it begins to vaporise). Pouring at the right range keeps those molecules intact. For example: Lavender and florals: best under 65 °C Cedarwood and patchouli: stable up to 80 °C Citrus: sensitive, keep under 60 °C That’s why I don’t follow a “one-temperature-fits-all” rule - I match the pour temperature to the oils themselves. Example blend – Alpine Calm Sweet Orange (top) + Lavender (middle) + Cedarwood (base) - Orange fades fast on its own, but cedarwood’s heavier sesquiterpenes slow the release, while lavender bridges the two. The result is a candle that stays balanced from first burn to last. For Soap - The Chemistry of Saponification Soapmaking changes everything. When lye and oils combine, saponification creates both soap and heat. That heat can exceed 70 °C, which breaks down small, delicate molecules - especially citrus and mint oils. That’s why I never rely on top notes alone, and why kaolin clay doesn’t preserve scent. Some people in the soap making world the recommend using kaolin clay to anchor essential oils, Kaolin is inert — it doesn’t bond chemically with essential oils. It improves glide and colour, but it can’t prevent evaporation. What does help is smart chemistry and timing: Add essential oils at light trace, when the mixture cools below 50 °C Blend with middle and base notes that survive alkalinity Let soap cure 4–6 weeks so moisture evaporates and scent settles naturally Example blend – Mountain Cleanse Lemon Myrtle (top) + Rosemary (middle) + Patchouli (base) → Lemon myrtle’s citral gives the bright lift, rosemary strengthens the middle, and patchouli’s large molecules hold everything in place long after curing. The Natural Anchors I Rely On I don’t use synthetic fixatives or heavy resins — I let the oils themselves do the work. Here’s how: Anchor What it does chemically, Why I use it Cedarwood High in sesquiterpenes that oxidise slowly Stabilises blends and adds woody depth Patchouli Contains patchoulol, a dense molecule that slows diffusion Deepens scent and balances citrus Sandalwood Full of santalols, which extend scent life through slow evaporation Creates creamy, warm base tones Vanilla Oleoresin Semi-solid, resinous compound rich in vanillin Adds warmth and naturally thickens blends Vetiver (occasionally) Contains vetiverol and khusimol - heavy alcohols that cling to lighter oils Used sparingly for depth and holding power By pairing these anchors with volatile top notes, I can predict how the scent will behave during both burning and curing. Example of Evaporation Control in Action When I make  a mint style blend as an example,  peppermint, eucalyptus, and a touch of vetiver,  the lightest molecules (menthol and cineole) evaporate first, giving that sharp burst. But the vetiver holds the tail end, so after the freshness fades, there’s still a cool, clean undertone left behind. That’s molecular control - not additives. Why My Scents Last Naturally Molecular weight matters,  heavier oils slow the light ones down Saponification heat destroys top notes - so balance and timing matter more than additives Anchors, not fixatives - I use natural heavy oils (wood, resin, or vanilla) to stabilise scent, not synthetics Temperature matching keeps volatile oils intact That’s how I create long-lasting scent without compromising purity or performance. At Alpine Apothecary, every candle and soap is a balance of art and chemistry. Once you understand the science, you don’t need shortcuts, just the right oils in the right order, handled with care.  

We offer refills for our current Amber Candle Jar CandlesBelow are the instructions on how to change them over.  Cleaning instructions Method 1: Freezer (recommended) Stop burning your original candle when there is about 1cm of wax left. If you burn it further, you may damage the candle container. Make sure the candle is at room temperature. If you freeze a recently lit candle, the glass may crack. Put the candle in the freezer and wait at about 1-2 hours no longer. Loosen the wax with a blunt knife (such as a butter knife) and pry it from the bottom of the container. Clean the container with soap and water (if necessary). Method 2: Hot water (also works!) Stop burning your original candle when there is about 1cm of wax left. If you burn it further, you may damage the container. Pour hot water into the container, leaving some space at the top. Wait at least 5 minutes. Most of the wax will float to the top. Remove it and empty the container. Try to remove any remaining wax from the bottom of the container with warm soapy water; if necessary, repeat the process. Clean the container with soap and water a final time so it is clean of any residue.   Using the refill            

Our shampoo bar for fine hair review explains what creates clean, lifted roots without brittle lengths, plus how to choose and use a bar well every wash.